Question for Paleo Rock Climbers

Answered on January 30, 2016
Created August 04, 2013 at 1:38 AM

The primary reason for failure in climbing is "the forearm pump" when lactic acid builds up in the forearms faster than the body can clear it out, thus resulting in less grip strength and ultimately falling. Given that burning fat doesn't produce lactic acid, it would seem to reason that sparing glycogen until the last possible moment would result in increased forearm endurance for climbing.

In my own N=1 experiment, that has been the case, I find that I do not get pumped as quickly while climbing, thus taking me to new personal bests in my pursuit of this passion.

Are there any other paleo climbers that have experienced this same effect? Also could this same affect be working in other sports with medium intensity mixed with maximum intensity, where fat is primarily used during medium intensity, saving muscle glycogen for when you are at your limit?

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1 Answers


on January 30, 2016
at 11:58 AM

I am not paléo but a vegetarian keto climber. It's only been 20days so I can't give much feedback but very keen on following the thread. I find that my max first reps in my set of pull ups has decreased but the total reps of the total set is back to as good as before starting but I am surely not fat adapted yet. Then in terms of sport climbing, I last longer, I mean I can not climb harder yet although I feel better but I can make more hard routes in a raw. Cheers

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